Control Burn

In 2014 or 2015, my friend JJ Schlick tipped me off about a potential new line at the Peaks Crag. Sometime later, Blake McCord and I went up for a day of checking out potential new lines. I spent my day on another project (that may or may not be impossible) and Blake checked out Control Burn.

Photo: Matt Enlow

Blake went on to do the first ascent of the route and a hard classic was born. A season or two later, I started putting more work into Control Burn. It was a challenging route for me, and I ended up finding alternate beta to avoid a big sideways move to a pocket that always felt tweaky on my shoulder.

Photo: Matt Enlow

The new beta involved long dynamic moves to somewhat smaller holds, but didn’t hurt my shoulder, so I stuck with it.

Photo: Michael Robinson

I also loved the movement with my alternate beta; a big backstep stab to a small crimp followed by a throw to a sidepull that always seemed to end in a windmill swing.

The route got a touch harder after the sidepull marking the end of the crux broke, making a jug into a small slot that required some more precision and one more hard move.

Photo: Michael Robinson

I finally sent the route on a beautiful May afternoon.

Photo: Matt Enlow

It’s a pretty classic route for the area with a five-star boulder problem straight into a really nice 5.12 finish.

Thanks to Matt Enlow and Mikey Robinson for the photos!

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