Dickel’s Delight

Long story short: in June 2020 Blake McCord and I opened Dickels Delight 5.13c with help from Zach Harrison. I freed all the pitches, and the route awaits a proper ‘in-a-push’ ascent but I want to open it up. I equipped it for free climbing with the blessing of the FA party and it is now an incredible and stacked free climb with pitches of 5.11, 5.13c. 5.13a/b, 5.13a, 5.11, and 5.6 (in order).

In 1997, Brian Smith and John Govi put up Dickel’s Delight , a proud aid line in the back of Mormon Canyon. I have worked with Brian on some river trips and heard about this route from him. I’d like to interview him and write up a story on the aid ascent, as it looked to be some pretty real nailing and hooking. As far as I could tell, the route has seen few or no repeats in the past 23 years.

Original Aid Route Topo from David Bloom’s Castles in the Sand

In October 2019, after spraining a finger pulley, I had some time on my hands and finally got around to checking out the route. I decided to come in top down to avoid damaging the rock with another aid ascent (especially by a nailing gumby like me). Getting ropes to the top involved some shenanigans, as the route tops out on a summit block ~50′ away from the rim of Wilson Mountain.

Tyrolean traverse to access top of Dickels Delight
Looking down the 5th pitch of Dickels Delight

Rappelling down the route for the first time, I was surprised and stoked at the clean rock and presence of enough features. Over the next few days, I cleaned and equipped the line for free climbing.

First look at the splitter of Pitch 3
Pitch 2 of Dickels Delight

In March 2020, Blake McCord and I started rope-soling on the route separately during Coronavirus lockdown. Once restrictions lifted, we had a short window of good weather before summer heat moved in.

Pitch 2

Once Blake and I could climb together, we started working the individual pitches. Pitch 1 is a pretty good corner pitch with some easy chimney at the top. Pitches 2 and 3 are 5-star pitches and would be classic anywhere. Pitch 4 is another excellent pitch of face/arete/dihedral climbing with a techy transition and downclimb section. Pitch 5 is a 5-star glory 5.11 layback with a overhanging headwall finish on good holds. Pitch six is a short rambly summit pitch.

Pitch 2
Pitch 3 compression section
Pitch 3 stemming section

Pitch 3 stemming
Pitch 3 stemming
Pitch 4 face moves

Blake and I had a great season on the route, and Zach Harrison joined us for a rad day of climbing the whole thing ground-up and shooting photos. The season closed out hard as the June heat moved in, but I was able to send all the individual pitches. For now, that’s enough for me, and I want to open it up and share the info so others can get on this amazing multipitch route.

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