Long story short: in June 2020 Blake McCord and I opened Dickels Delight 5.13c with help from Zach Harrison. I freed all the pitches, and the route awaits a proper ‘in-a-push’ ascent but I want to open it up. I equipped it for free climbing with the blessing of the FA party and it is now an incredible and stacked free climb with pitches of 5.11, 5.13c. 5.13a/b, 5.13a, 5.11, and 5.6 (in order).
In 1997, Brian Smith and John Govi put up Dickel’s Delight , a proud aid line in the back of Mormon Canyon. I have worked with Brian on some river trips and heard about this route from him. I’d like to interview him and write up a story on the aid ascent, as it looked to be some pretty real nailing and hooking. As far as I could tell, the route has seen few or no repeats in the past 23 years.
In October 2019, after spraining a finger pulley, I had some time on my hands and finally got around to checking out the route. I decided to come in top down to avoid damaging the rock with another aid ascent (especially by a nailing gumby like me). Getting ropes to the top involved some shenanigans, as the route tops out on a summit block ~50′ away from the rim of Wilson Mountain.
Rappelling down the route for the first time, I was surprised and stoked at the clean rock and presence of enough features. Over the next few days, I cleaned and equipped the line for free climbing.
In March 2020, Blake McCord and I started rope-soling on the route separately during Coronavirus lockdown. Once restrictions lifted, we had a short window of good weather before summer heat moved in.
Once Blake and I could climb together, we started working the individual pitches. Pitch 1 is a pretty good corner pitch with some easy chimney at the top. Pitches 2 and 3 are 5-star pitches and would be classic anywhere. Pitch 4 is another excellent pitch of face/arete/dihedral climbing with a techy transition and downclimb section. Pitch 5 is a 5-star glory 5.11 layback with a overhanging headwall finish on good holds. Pitch six is a short rambly summit pitch.
Blake and I had a great season on the route, and Zach Harrison joined us for a rad day of climbing the whole thing ground-up and shooting photos. The season closed out hard as the June heat moved in, but I was able to send all the individual pitches. For now, that’s enough for me, and I want to open it up and share the info so others can get on this amazing multipitch route.